The song you are listening to is a paraguayan polka called Volve, volve
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FOUR SEASONS DUCK
This dish could be served as a large main course for 2 or as a smaller course for 4.
1 six- to 7-pound duck
1. Rinse duck well under cold water. Pat dry with a paper towel. Remove giblets from cavity, and reserve for sauce. Using a chef's knife, cut off wings and ankle joint. Set aside for sauce. Remove excess fat from the tail cavity, and discard. Cut off excess skin from neck, and discard. Using a paring knife, make small ¼-inch incisions on the back of the duck. This will allow for the fat to render during cooking.
2. Hang the duck, or place on top of a wire rack set over a baking sheet, in the refrigerator, until dry, for 3 days.
3. On the second day, use a chef's knife to cut the skin and pith away from the oranges. With a paring knife, carefully cut sections from orange. Set aside for garnish. Peel ginger, and cut into thin rounds. Slice orange zest into long thin strips. Combine ginger, orange zest, garlic, honey, soy sauce, and peppercorns in a large bowl. Stir to combine. Let stand overnight, and strain. Using a wooden spoon, press solids to remove all of the liquid, and set aside for marinade.
4. Remove the duck from the refrigerator, and place it breast-side-up in a large shallow pan. Brush the duck with half the marinade. Let rest for 20 minutes. Rub the duck with the remaining marinade, covering completely. Transfer duck to refrigerator, and let stand overnight.
5. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Fill a roasting pan with ¼-inch of water, and place on the lowest oven rack. (This will create steam and will catch fat as it is released from the duck during cooking.) Arrange oven rack in center of oven. Place duck directly on rack, and roast until dark brown and slightly puffed, about 1 ½ to 2 hours. Remove from oven. Let rest for about 20 minutes, carve, and serve with sauces and Sautéed Vegetables (recipe follows). Garnish with orange sections.
BASIC DUCK SAUCE
This serves as the base for Green Peppercorn and Orange sauces.
1. Heat oven to 400 degrees.
2. In a large roasting pan, place reserved neck, wings and giblets. Add the celery, carrot, and onion to pan and roast until deep brown, about 20 minutes. Remove pan from the oven. Transfer to a medium saucepan.
3. Deglaze roasting pan with 1 cup red wine. Stir well, being sure to loosen any of the bits that have cooked onto the pan. Set aside.
4. Add tomato paste to the vegetable mixture in medium saucepan, and stir to combine. Sauté over medium heat until paste begins to color, about 45 to 60 seconds. Add flour, stirring continuously. Sauté until the flour taste has cooked out, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add 1 cup red wine. Add reduced red wine and bits from the roasting pan. Add chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until the liquid has reduced by half, about 35 to 40 minutes. Strain mixture through a fine sieve into a bowl, and discard solids. You should have about 1 cup of the basic sauce.
GREEN PEPPERCORN SAUCE
1 cup red wine
Combine 1 cup red wine and shallots in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat until liquid has almost disappeared, about 5 to 7 minutes. Just before the sauce has finished reducing, add the crushed green peppercorns.
Reduce heat to low, and add heavy cream, brandy, and ½ cup Basic Duck Sauce. Stir to combine and cook until just hot. Remove from heat, adjust for seasonings. Set aside.
2 tablespoons orange marmalade
In a small saucepan, combine marmalade, orange juice, Grand Marnier, and red-wine vinegar. Cook over medium heat and reduce by half, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add remaining ½ cup of Basic Duck Sauce. Remove from heat, adjust for seasonings. Set aside.
Fiddlehead ferns and ramps are available in specialty produce markets in spring and early summer.
1. Julienne the reserved ramp leaves; set aside. Bring a stockpot of salted water to a boil. Add carrots, turnip, and beet, and blanch until just tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add potato, ramps, and ferns, and blanch for an additional 2 to 3 minutes.
2. In a medium sauté pan, heat olive oil and butter over medium heat. Remove vegetables from stockpot with a slotted spoon and transfer to pan. Sauté until there is just a hint of color, about 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in julienned ramp leaves. Season with salt and pepper, and remove from heat. Serve with duck.
This is the easiest way I know to cook a duck. When roasting, do not to use a cooking bag. Use a pan with a rack which allows fat out into the dripping pan below. This will keep the duck crisp. If a duck stands in a bath of its own fat, it is flabby and uninteresting. Prick the skin a few times while it is roasting and it will be crunchier. Rub the duck with salt and pepper and thyme or rosemary if desired, place a peeled onion stuck with two cloves in the cavity,(allow one duck for two persons). Roast @ 325 degrees for 1 1/2 hours to two hours. Serve by cutting in half with poultry shears (they are difficult to slice) and serve over rice,wild rice or barley. Turnips are a good accompaniment for duck.
Here is a recipe for Duck with Raspberries from the legendary chef André Soltner who is now a master chef and senior lecturer at The French Culinary Institute. It comes from his book on classic French cuisine--The Lutèce Cookbook, published by Knopf in 1996
The recipe calls for the whole duck, but you could work with just duck breasts, but remember that would reduce the cooking time.
Note: The recipe calls for 8 serving pieces, that is, each leg cut in 2 parts, and each half of the breast cut in 2 parts. It also calls for Fond blanc de canard, which may be prepeared in advance using the carcass, wings, and neck. [recipe follows]
3 tablespoons (3/8 stick) unsalted butter
1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a heavy pot, and brown the serving pieces of duck on both sides over medium heat. Add the sugar cubes and garlic cloves. Cover the pot and cook for 20 minutes.
2. Remove all the fat from the pot. Add the vinegar, tomato purée , tomatoes, and bouquet garni. Cook 10 minutes longer, covered.
3.Remove the pieces of duck from this pot and put them in a second pot, or in a flameproof casserole that can be brought to the table. Set aside.
4.Preheat the oven to 400°F.
5. Add the Fond blanc de canard to the first pot and boil it until it is reduced by 1/2. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Strain this sauce, pushing it firmly through a fine sieve, over the duck.
6.Sprinkle the raspberries over the duck and put the duck in the preheated oven, uncovered for 2 minutes before serving.Serve hot.
Fond blanc de canard(White Duckling Stock)
1 duckling carcass, plus the wings and the ends of the legs [the very tips that you should hack off before cooking the leg piece--this technique is called machonner in French cooking.]
1 medium onion, peeled and sliced
In a pot, cover the carcass, wings, and leg ends with cold water. Add all the other ingredients. Bring to the boil, and cook, partially covered , for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Skim the fat and foam from the top of the liquid frequently. Strain through a fine sieve.
Tie together with a string.
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© Sibelle 1999
Anything that I have on these pages I either believe to be in public domain, or I've asked permission to use. In most cases there is a link. the ones that do not ... well... I'm just learning *G* and didn't know. So if you see anything that you recognize as yours, email me. I will instantly either link you to it or take it out, as you may wish. Thank you for your understanding.